48 Hours in Kyoto
Gin bars, rooftops, restaurants and a life-changing hot springs soak.
Lately I’ve been thinking about how much I’d like to go back to Japan. Know those places you just can’t get out of your head? Kyoto is one of them for me. We briefly talked about Japan on our intro podcast episode here and our first guest on the show, Chelsea, had some things to say about Japanese clinics and pharmacies, too—she’s hilarious. This story I wrote about Kyoto was originally published at TravelPulse in 2018.
Read on for my favorites and if you have Kyoto recommendations please share them in the comments!
Eat & Drink
Must order Japanese fried chicken and a whiskey highball anywhere it’s available, but definitely do this at Kyoto Station on your way into or out of the city. It’s cheap, quick, easy and delicious.
There are people who get sick of the food in any given place once they’ve eaten it for a week plus… I am not usually one of those people, but switching it up can be fun no matter where you are. At Ikariya523, meat and veggies come from farms in the area. We had some delish French food (and wine!) here; the restaurant is in a really cute walkable area with other restaurants and a little river(?) running through the street.
I had my birthday dinner with my bestie at Gion Manzara, this gorgeous little izakaya in the geisha district. No reservations necessary.
Love, love, loved In the Moon. Recommended by an LA friend, this rooftop bar had super friendly bartenders and an incredible view of the city. From what I remember we had to go in through an old office building of sorts, take the elevator up and then ta-da! There it was.
Nokishita 711 Gin & Cocktail Lab—a gin bar with beautifully crafted botanical cocktails served in fish bowls, Nokishita has changed quite a bit since we last visited (I’m sure it will still surprise and delight). The new format is liquid cuisine, which the website states as “making cocktails by extracting liquid from all ingredients including meat, fish, insect and plant.” There is a tasting course and a tea ceremony, which you can participate in by reservation. One of my fondest memories of Kyoto was hanging out at this bar.
Sleep
Here are some hotels I did not stay at, but do have on my list for next time:
HOSHINOYA Kyoto (a riverside retreat in historic Kyoto), Ace Hotel (which is more budget friendly) and Four Seasons Hotel Kyoto (FS is always a luxury, but always worth it). There are also so many cool ryokans—traditional Japanese inns—that have perks like breakfast included or hot springs/bathhouses on site.
Take a Road Trip
The best, most memorable part of this trip for me was a visit to Kurama Onsen in a village called Kurama, a 30-minute train ride outside of Kyoto (you can also take a taxi). This is not only the birthplace of Reiki, but also home to the most magical, spiritual outdoor bathing experience I’ve ever had. Surrounded by mountains and forest, Kurama Onsen is truly one of a kind. The air is just different here. Spend the day lounging around, meditating, daydreaming and then grab a bite on the property’s traditional restaurant—be prepared to take off your shoes and sit on the floor during your meal). Finally, saunter down to the Kurama-Dera Mountain Temple and take a walk through town (there are some beautiful roadside shops and places to eat) before heading back to town.
This attraction is wonderfully inexpensive (just about $10 USD to soak outdoors with no time limit), but comes with a few rules: no phones, no tattoos, no clothes.