Caroline's Perfect Day in Vero Beach
Diverse dining options, cute shops, and a strong arts scene have elevated this friendly Florida town from its onetime moniker, “Zero Beach.”
Bringing back the “Perfect Day” series with this treat from Caroline McCoy, the most talented writer and one of my very best friends for over a decade. Caroline and I went to grad school together, and we’ve continued to visit each other, take road trips together, and collaborate on projects together. It’s so much fun.
Caroline's Perfect Day in Vero Beach
Words by Caroline McCoy, a Savannah-based writer and editor who has been visiting Vero Beach, Florida, for more than a decade.
Foot traffic starts early along the Vero Beach Public Boardwalk, which begins at Jaycee Park and runs a third of a mile along a stretch of guarded beach. It’s the perfect spot to watch the sunrise before strolling over to the Seaside Grill for an oceanfront breakfast. After several years of renovation and planning, the restaurant reopened in December 2023 and has quickly reestablished itself as a local gathering place, thanks to its varied menu and all-day-long service. Seating starts at 7:00 a.m. and tables fill up quickly.
Pedestrians and cyclists will find an ample supply of sidewalks and bike lanes in Vero Beach, including a protected lane of the Merrill P. Barber Bridge, which crosses the Intracoastal Waterway. I tend to skip these heavily trafficked pathways in favor of a more exploratory stroll along Ocean Drive and its many side streets. Beginning at Jaycee Park and following the boardwalk, Ocean Drive will take you south past a string of pretty hotels (including Costa d’Este, the upscale beachfront resort and spa owned by Gloria Estefan), boutiques, casual dining spots, and beach-access points. Don’t miss M Maison, Veranda, Consider the Cook, and Loggia for homewares and gifts. Kemp’s is a local favorite for fun shoes, and The Twig is the place to find everything from swimwear to silk eye masks to natural skin- and sun-care brands like Caudalie and Salt & Stone. On Thursdays, I like to stop into Corey’s Pharmacy for the latest issue of 32963. This free newspaper is filled with local happenings, from the glamorous to the scandalous. Walk one street over to Cardinal to visit The Laughing Dog Gallery, which carries work by an international portfolio of artists.
Ocean Drive is also home to two can’t-miss restaurants: The Lemon Tree, an always-busy brunch spot that serves excellent coffee and perfect poached eggs, and El Sid, a taqueria that shares space with Countryside Citrus, a local, family-run farm that makes the most fabulous soft-serve orange ice cream I’ve ever tasted.
For a late lunch and more shopping, I make the short drive up A1A to The Village Shops. Citron Bistro has a menu filled with fresh fish and creative salads as well as sandwiches and heartier dishes. The restaurant was founded by the resort-wear designer Jay McLaughlin and the décor is inspired by his bright, playful, and sophisticated aesthetic. One of his flagship J. McLaughlin stores is directly across from the restaurant patio, as is my favorite shop, Belle Cose. The local boutique has a location on Ocean Drive that specializes in gifts and homewares, but I prefer browsing the unique clothing and jewelry lines carried at the Village Shops location. Finally, I always make time to browse the artwork at Meghan Candler’s Gallery.
Until Allison visited me in Vero, I had no idea that Happy Hour starts at 4:00 p.m. We tried a few spots, but my favorite was Bobby’s on Ocean Drive for the vintage Florida vibes (and very local scene). From Bobby’s it’s an easy walk to The Tides on Cardinal for an upscale dinner. The atmosphere can get a little stuffy inside, so I like to sit at the tiny but lively outdoor bar.
Vero’s population skews older and the town goes to sleep early, but Grind + Grape and Havana Nights Piano Bar stay open later than most spots and always have live music and dancing.
More places I love:
The Vero Beach Museum of Art has a sizeable permanent collection and regularly hosts interesting exhibits. (My most recent favorite featured an impressive assortment of Art Deco automobiles.)
The McKee Botanical Garden is a shady place for walking, exploring a wide variety of plants, and letting kids burn off steam in the interactive Children’s Garden.
Built in the 1920s for the island’s citrus farmers, the Historic Jungle Trail is now a 7.8-mile scenic sandy drive that parallels the Intracoastal Waterway and ends (or begins) at the Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge.
Whenever I travel, I love to visit local markets and groceries. Ryder’s on Cardinal makes a poached chicken salad that I’m obsessed with. They also have a full kitchen and serve breakfast and lunch at a handful of outdoor tables. The Village Beach Market (closed on Sundays, and known to locals as Tiffany’s because it’s so expensive), a short drive north on A1A, carries a smoked fish dip that has become my cocktail-hour staple.