Croatia's cliffside bars + hidden beaches
So much to experience on the Dalmatian Coast
Welcome to my happy place — this is the first of many posts as I hope to share weekly (sometimes biweekly) about hotels, restaurants, bars, easy transportation, airport lounges, getting all the bang for your buck while traveling and more. Please hold me accountable. Let me know what you like… and what you hate. Also, tell me what you want to read about. Send me love letters. I appreciate those.
Does getting on a plane stress you out? I’ll compile a cool list of road trips or places you can get to by train. Are you a little bougie? I’ve got suggestions for you, too. Can’t travel without your dog? Thank the universe many hotels are pet friendly these days (and have bowls, beds and treats waiting for you). Don’t drink the tap water in Mexico. In Croatia, it’s fine, which leads me to the actual subject of this post.
The past two years have been wild to say the least and as someone who’s often on the go, not being able to hop on a plane every other weekend was rough. But alas, this summer things started to look up so in July I went to Croatia. This was my first(!!) international trip since COVID and the research process was interesting, but painless to navigate for the most part. You probably all know by now that no matter what other countries require (negative test, proof of vaccination, x amount of days in isolation), you MUST get a COVID test to re-enter the U.S. I did not know this somehow and was able to leave Croatia without a test, but had a connecting flight and almost got stranded in Poland. Basically, we made it through customs and security only to be turned around at boarding. I’m 100% sure this is not the usual protocol, but the plane was held for six of us (my friends and three other passengers who had been in Greece) to give us time to take a test, get the results and then show them at our gate. Do not get stranded in Poland.
COVID info for U.S. travelers going to Croatia
A little disclaimer: This list is not all-inclusive in any sense of the word and I will most likely remind you on a weekly basis that I am writing about my personal experiences and will feature things I enjoyed and that worked for me. If something ends up being horrible or subpar, I’ll let you know to avoid it.
We went to four-ish places along the Dalmatian Coast: Dubrovnik, Hvar, Korčula, and Split. We took ferries and rented cars. We made dinner reservations and missed a few of them. Not everything went as planned, but I would highly recommend nearly all of it nonetheless. I didn’t watch the Anthony Bourdain Croatia episode until after our trip but he actually went to Istria, Zadar and the Kornati Islands (we didn’t have time for any of those, unfortunately).
Eat
So many standout dining experiences in Croatia, but also some local dishes (I’m looking at you creamy shrimp and risotto) got old fast. I will return for the fresh fish and locally-made cheese and olives and wine and fig and eggplant and artichoke everything.
Above 5 - This is a Michelin-recommended restaurant with a prix fixe menu above the Stari Grad hotel in Dubrovnik. It’s easy to miss and you have to take five — yes five — flights of stairs to get to the restaurant, but the 360-degree Old Town view is reason alone to dine here. Flavors are impeccable starting with the amuse-bouche (side note Croatians are so gracious and almost every “fancy” restaurant we went to had this little bite-size offering for us ahead of our meal). Choose between three and five courses (~ $100-$170 USD per person). Worth every penny and honestly three was enough for me. We also saw a mom and daughter split a three-course meal which could work if you ate a little something beforehand? My three favorites: the sea bass, mushroom ravioli and mango panna cotta.
Everything in Old Town is like five steps away from the next place, I kid you not. Zuzori is great for a cheese and charcuterie dinner. Croatians cure their own meats and they’re phenomenal.
Traditional and authentic Croatian food (it’s been open since the 1800s apparently), Fish Restaurant Proto was lovely for lunch and again just minutes walking distance from where we stayed. Fresh fish and bread with olive oil and a gin & tonic hit the spot on a hot day. One thing I forgot about until right now is that there are no cars in Old Town so a.) you HAVE to walk everywhere and b.) when you first arrive from the airport there are one of two entrances to Old Town where your Uber/Lyft/taxi will drop you off and, yeah, you’re gonna have to lug your suitcases into town and up/down various flights of stairs. If you’re not a fan of walking, do not take this trip.
Anyway, a restaurant that’s just outside Old Town is Pantarul. You can take a bus or taxi to get there. This place was a breath of fresh air toward the end of our trip (we went back to Dubrovnik for just a night before flying out). Order the slow braised ox cheeks, the crispy panko-coated chicken and the tagliatelle with cream of aubergine (AKA eggplant) and the gluten free white chocolate and almond cake.
Moving onto Hvar. The most magical, tiny spot (again, mere steps from our hotel, and don’t wear heels because everything here is kind of around the port where the ground is cobblestone), Konoba Luviji Rooftop was I think my favorite meal of the trip. Small and family-owned, this restaurant does suggest making reservations and I would advise the same. Get the whole fish. And the olives. Multiple glasses of wine. Don’t forget dessert: goat ricotta (made in house) with locally-grown figs, honey, nuts and fig jam is heaven.
Still in Hvar, go for a hike/walk from the port area (if that’s where you’re staying) to Pachamama and Robinson Beach. The trek is about an hour along fig and olive tree-lined roads overlooking the ocean and will leave you at the most amazing little beach restaurant (also called Robinson), which you can only walk or boat to. It wasn’t packed because it’s a little out of the way and I’m sure people are lazy and don’t feel like hiking on their vacation, but I give it a 10/10. Easy finger foods, fresh bread, olive oil, good wine, no electricity. If you’re lucky there will be a water taxi guy hanging around who you can ask for a ride back to Hvar Town. It’s cheap and takes about 20 minutes or so.
Make a reservation at Black Pepper for dinner or be like us and befriend the bartenders who will snag you a table when there are none left.
In Korčula, make reservations at the Michelin-starred LD restaurant inside Lesic Dimitri Palace or at Restaurant Filippi. If you are tired of Croatian food go for pizza at Pizzeria Pape or Tedeschi. Croatians love their gelato so you’ll find ice cream shops and stands in pretty much every town.
In Split, we did dinner at Fig. It was aight. Brunch at Bepa! Coffee at D16. I heard Bokeria is good (from an American friend). Was packed when we walked by on a Wednesday night.
Drink
In Old Town Dubrovnik, do a wine tasting at D’Vino Wine Bar. It’s intimate and cozy in a cute little alley. This wine bar offers over 60 wines by the glass. We tasted both reds and whites* and discovered some really unique flavors.
*Definitely ask for Grk wine - Grk is special because it’s a Croatian grape variety grown in Korčula and nowhere else in the world
Also in Old Town, there are two hidden/cliffside bars. I dare you not to google directions and just find them before the sun sets — that’s what happened to us and it was a beautiful surprise. Do have cash on you, though, because both Buza Bar and Bard are cash only.
After dinner in Hvar, go to Central Park Club for live music and a nightcap. If you stay at Hotel Park Hvar (linked below), both of these are right outside the hotel. In July there was a 12am curfew throughout the country. Heard through the grapevine that after midnight there are boats that will shuttle you to private islands for parties that go until 5am. Chat up a server or a sailor who can give you more info.
In Lumbarda (a small village in Korčula), don’t sleep on Lovric Winery (small, family-owned winery with white, red and rose tastings plus grappa and homemade snacks like tomatoes stuffed with cheese and anchovies). Bire Winery is a bigger winery (read: more variety) and worth a visit, too. There are a few others in the area. Rent a bike or a scooter to get from one to the next.
Cocktail Bar Massimo is in Old Town Korčula and can only be accessed via a ladder. It’s weird and cool and kind of creepy. I had just one drink up there because I was afraid of falling.
Between Krka National Park and Split in an area called Plastovo you’ll find Bibich Winery, a California-feeling spot with lots of colorful flowers, light blue awnings and the best food pairings. Come as you are. Literally. We were in bathing suits. This was another favorite for food and wine and it seems that it was a favorite for Anthony Bourdain as well.
The largest city on the Adriatic Coast, Split was my least favorite and we didn’t really go out drinking, but the Old City is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and had a ton of little pubs around Diocletian’s Palace that looked fun.
Sleep
I honestly really liked Airbnbs over hotels on this trip because they were just so much more affordable. If you need/want links to the ones we stayed at, just ask. Would love to send them your way. Our hosts were great too — I think quite a few of them moonlight as tour guides. In Dubrovnik we stayed inside and outside of Old Town (there are benefits to both).
If you prefer the luxury of hotels, Hotel Excelsior Dubrovnik, Villa Orsula Dubrovnik and Hotel Bellevue Dubrovnik are the ocean view spots just outside Old Town Dubrovnik.
A note: We walked to La Caravelle inside the Grand Villa Argentina hotel one day for a drink; pics are beautiful and it was recommended by a couple friends. We got there and it was shut down(?). So eery and deserted like a little Croatian ghost town — we opened the door to what could’ve been a lobby or a ballroom and there was one lady in there who kind of rushed over but kept her distance and shouted, “we’re closed!” Guessing they had some kind of COVID issue and hopefully are back to normal now.
Hotel Park Hvar: We loved it here. It’s a little pricey, but has a cute courtyard and free breakfast. Rooms are huge; ours was a two-story room with a bathroom and two beds upstairs plus a full living room and bathroom downstairs. Right outside you’ll find restaurants, wine bars and a port view.
In Korčula we stayed at Port 9 Apartments outside of Old Town. Would not recommend a room for more than two (it was three of us). There’s a rental car agency on site (a car is good for touring the island and wineries) and a golf cart shuttle guy who will take you into town for a small fee.
I would honestly prefer next time to stay in an “agroturizam” inn like the one at Lovric Winery (see image above for website and contact info). Prices are good, you are helping out a local family and Ante (the owner we met) and his parents would love to show you around especially during harvest — you could even participate and be part of the winemaking process if you want. Win-win.
In Split, we stayed at Azur Palace. It’s a super discreet little spot close to the Palace with an outdoor courtyard, a little social/reading room with books and magazines and the room was cool with two beds (one loft style up a ladder above the bathroom).
More (aka some advice that includes transportation, shopping, sightseeing & other activities)
Kayaking in Dubrovnik was cool, BUT you kayak around Lokrum Island and stop at a random beach area. You don’t get to actually get off and explore Lokrum so keep that in mind if you plan on doing this. If I could do it again, I would book a half day trip to Lokrum where there is some wildlife (rabbits and peacocks), a monastery and botanical garden. If you just want to do the kayak tour, we booked this one.
The Walls of Dubrovnik - Everyone told us to visit at sunset, except the Walls were closed by then. We did it instead around noon which I would not (ever) recommend in summer heat. Book your tickets online here or just ask any local where you can buy them in person.
Instead, ride the cable car at sunset for sweeping city views. There’s a restaurant at the top called Panorama — I can’t speak to the quality of the food, but maybe just go for drinks?
At some point in Dubrovnik you’ll run into the Jesuit Stairs from Game of Thrones. I never watched the show, but liked all the little nods to the series in Old Town.
Book a sunset sailing tour to Pakleni Islands in Hvar. We did this one which included wine (in a jar) and snacks (chocolate cream-filled wafers and peanut butter crackers lol). If you want more info before booking, call +385912280088 or send an email to booking@hvar-adventure.com.
Shopping: A must visit is Isola Design Store in Hvar if you’re buying gifts for yourself or friends/family. There’s a market at the port too where you can find lavender products and cute little jewelry with pearls on it.
In Split: Couple shops we loved including Korean beauty (can’t remember the name, but they sold these amazing Croatian soaps as well) and Studio Naranca, the cutest little gallery, art and gift shop.
As far as getting around - check the ferry schedule and book ahead because sometimes there are only one or two trips a day to your destination. We took ferries from Dubrovnik to Hvar, Hvar to Korčula and Korčula to Split. From Split, we took a bus (which stops in Bosnia and Herzegovina) back to Dubrovnik. You can buy your bus ticket by the ferry port.
If you got this far, congrats and thanks for reading! I hope you make it to Croatia and I hope you love it as much as I did. If you have questions, I’ll be doing monthly newsletter Q&As and can also help plan your itinerary for an additional fee. Just give me a shout. Bok for now (that’s “hi” and “bye” in Croatian).