Do Not Underestimate the Magic of Madrid
It's a diverse city with something for everyone and I can't believe I waited 36 years to visit.
I took an interest in traveling (and maybe moving someday) to Spain as a whole six or seven years ago. Food and wine is crazy affordable, walking culture is strong and I speak/understand the language which makes it easy-ish, although Spanish does vary wildly from region of region. I’ve been fortunate to explore Basque Country and Catalonia so it was only a matter of time until I made it to the country’s capital.
My fascination with Madrid is recent. My great grandmother was from the city (Pozuelo de Alarcon, to be specific) and emigrated from Spain to Cuba in her 20s. Most people have talked to me about it as a place to “stop through” when visiting more desirable cities and I had been in the airport countless times before actually considering spending a few days there. So glad I finally did. Madrid is vibrant and exciting, with so much to offer in terms of dining, accommodation, and activities. I’ve already visited twice this year and see myself returning often; it’s one of those places that feels like home, even if it has rained on both of my trips (torrential downpours, with emergency alerts on our phones kind of rain). Everyone also says it never rains in Madrid. I’m about to stop trusting y’all.
Here are some recommendations for where to eat, drink, stay, shop and play in Madrid, based on my recent adventures:
Where to Stay
BLESS Hotel Madrid: This luxurious hotel offers a comfortable and stylish stay in the heart of Madrid’s “Golden Mile.” It's known for its chic design and excellent service and is a short walk to Parque del Retiro and lots of designer shops. I had a massive room here. I mean MASSIVE. Walk-in closet, claw-foot tub, living room, spacious balcony. Couldn’t have asked for a better stay. There’s a rooftop here where you can catch the sunset with a glass of wine and a lobby bar, perfect for grabbing a coffee or a cocktail. The spa here is like something out of a fairytale (visually) and includes a wet and dry sauna, hot tub and treatment rooms.
Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid: A true icon of Madrid, this historic hotel offers timeless elegance and a prime location near the famous Prado Museum. We stayed here in May for my birthday (thanks, bestie) and I was blown away by the decor, the service, views from our room and just attention to detail 24/7. The bar here is gorgeous and although the bill will be steeper than most other hotels in Madrid, your stay comes with a hotel credit to use at the restaurant, bar or spa ($100-$200, I believe), free breakfast and other wonderful perks.
Where to Eat & Drink
Tripea: I had to call in a favor to dine at this 14-seat restaurant inside Mercado de Vallehermoso and I’m so glad I did. The eight-course prix fixe Peruvian-Asian fusion menu is a steal at 50 bucks a pop (per person) and drinks, like everywhere else in the city, are cheap. The chef, Roberto Martinez Foronda, is around my age and has probably been in the kitchen for half his life. It shows. Also - his staff seems to really like him and they genuinely enjoy their work is the vibe we got, which is a major plus. I can’t wait to eat here again.
Viva Madrid: Open since 1865, Viva Madrid is a GREAT TIME in a typical and historic taverna space. The menu combines more traditional Spanish tapas with an excellent cocktail program thanks to Salmon Guru’s Diego Cabrera (yes, you can also get beer, wine or vermouth). Known for its lively atmosphere and excellent tapas, Viva Madrid is a favorite among locals and tourists alike.
Leña: If you're looking for a more modern take on Spanish cuisine, Lena is a top-notch option. The steakhouse by Dani Garcia offers creative dishes (and cocktails) with a Mediterranean twist. Because there is a “bigger” name attached to it, I thought it might be pricey, but as usual in Spain, I was pleasantly surprised by the price.
Salmon Guru: Located in the heart of Madrid, Salmon Guru is a trendy cocktail bar known for its innovative mixology. Their eclectic menu features a wide range of cocktails, with an emphasis on gin-based creations. There will always be a line here, as it is on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, but I recommend going during the day and it won’t take too long to snag a spot at the bar.
La Venencia Sherry Bar: This old world tavern is from the 1930s and it’s effing awesome. Nestled in the historic district of Madrid, La Venencia offers a taste of Andalusian tradition, specializing in the finest sherries from Spain. With its cozy ambiance and knowledgeable staff, it's the perfect place to savor the rich heritage of Spanish sherry. No pictures allowed here so just get your drink, eat your olives and soak it all in.
Sala de Despiece: For a unique dining experience, head to Sala de Despiece. Full disclosure: this type of dining experience is not for everyone, but I loved it. This avant-garde restaurant reimagines the concept of meat and seafood preparation, with an open-kitchen design that allows diners to witness the culinary artistry in action. The menu is creative and ever-changing, making each visit a delightful surprise. There are a few locations in the city so if you snag a reservation, make sure you’re headed to the right place.
Santa Askua: Santa Askua is a Basque-inspired gem located in Plaza Santa Ana. Known for its authentic pintxos, this restaurant offers a delightful array of small, flavorful dishes. It's a great place to indulge in the communal dining experience with friends and savor the bold flavors of the region. Must order the croquetas, the sausage, the gazpacho (I think they just bring it to you if I remember correctly) and the paella.
Juana la Loca: Tucked away in the historic La Latina neighborhood, Juana la Loca is a tapas bar that's famous for its traditional Spanish dishes with a modern twist. Whether you're in the mood for classic patatas bravas or innovative tapas, Juana la Loca offers a diverse selection of flavors to please any palate. The cozy, rustic interior adds to its authentic charm. We lined up outside while it was raining and quickly got a spot at the bar for a couple glasses of cava and a tortilla.
Lhardy: Established in 1839, Lhardy is a historic gastronomic institution in Madrid. This elegant restaurant and delicatessen has stood the test of time, offering a taste of traditional Spanish cuisine with a refined touch. Known for its cocido madrileño (a hearty Spanish stew), Lhardy's classic charm and impeccable service make it a favorite among those seeking a taste of Madrid's culinary heritage. If you order the jamon iberico you better finish it or your server will have something to say (they all do lol). Pair your meal with a bottle of Tempranillo or garnacha.
Angelita Madrid: Angelita Madrid is a fun bar with inventive cocktails and an extensive wine list featuring both Spanish and international selections. I was sold the minute I walked in. They play hip hop and it’s super dark. If they find out it’s your birthday the whole bar will sing to you, so there’s that too. The cocktails come with what looks like loteria cards and I still have mine somewhere.
Things to Do:
See a flamenco show: Madrid is known for its vibrant flamenco scene. You can catch a flamenco performance at many venues across the city like Tablao Flamenco Las Carboneras and Corral de la Morería. We went to La Cueva de Lola and cried like a thousand times. It was so good and each ticket includes a drink.
Sing your heart out at a local piano bar: A friend saw my stories on Instagram and said I could not leave Madrid without checking out Toni 2 Piano Bar so after flamenco, this is where we went. First of all, it doesn’t open until 11:30 PM, so you’ll already walk in expecting a late night. 5 AM late is not what I had in mind, but life surprises us in beautiful ways sometimes. Toni 2 is a cozy, timeless establishment where live piano music sets the mood for a rowdy crowd ready to sing along. It’s a must. Just trust me on this one.
Walk in the park: Stroll through the beautiful Retiro Park (Parque del Buen Retiro). It's a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city with gardens, a lake, and even a Crystal Palace.
Shop: Madrid is a shopping paradise. Head to Gran Vía for high-street brands, explore the boutiques in the Malasaña neighborhood for unique fashion finds, and don't forget to visit El Rastro flea market on Sundays. HUMANA VINTAGE, Magpie and Boho Vintage Madrid are a few fun vintage shops. Stop into Crazy Mary for books and Cocol (I am obsessed) for pottery, beauty products like rosemary shampoo and leather goods.
Take a nap: Spanish culture embraces the siesta. After a delicious meal, consider taking a relaxing siesta to recharge for your evening activities. Most things close anyway including the pharmacies so why not rest up while everyone else does?