Eat, drink, and be merry in Savannah

The Hostess City takes Southern hospitality to the next level.

This is for everyone who’s always asking me for a Savannah list — you know who you are! And for everyone else, a little background before we dive in: I lived in the Hostess City for two years during grad school. When I say this city changed my life, I mean it. The people, the hospitality, the food, friends I made from all over the world, walking in heels with a cocktail in a plastic cup on cobblestone streets; you get it.

You can see a ton over a long weekend, but is it enough? Not for me. Squeeze in as much as you can and visit often if possible. Savannah is a place you fall fast for and the love lasts forever.

Eat

Foxy Loxy Cafe is a Tex Mex coffee shop with kolaches, tacos, cream cheese brownies and other pastries. I spent half of 2012 writing my thesis here and can confirm it’s always delicious. Opt for a beer or wine when it’s time. Take advantage of Matcha Mondays, happy hour and live music on Fridays and roast marshmallows on the fire every Saturday with half off bottles of wine. Foxy’s sister cafe, The Coffee Fox, is on Broughton Street. If you prefer vegan, Fox & Fig Cafe has got you with dishes like chia porridge, cashew cheese chipotle mac and banana bread French toast.

The Collins Quarter has two locations — I like the Forsyth Park outpost because it’s bigger and usually not as packed. Be like me and wash your avocado toast down with a mimosa while your dog sits and watches.

Little Duck Diner: Go for brunch! Get a little tipsy! My picks are the Bi Bim Bop Bowl or the Duck Dynasty Bowl. To drink, get the Lavender Bubble Bath Bellini or the Hari Kari Bloody Mary (both come with mini rubber duckies floating inside the drink which, for some reason, makes everyone happy).

The Olde Pink House: This is a Savannah staple with a haunted history. Snag a spot at the piano bar downstairs and settle in for some great entertainment. Go big or go home if you’re eating here. Maybe take an alka-seltzer. For me, the winners are the crab cake with fried green tomatoes, corn bread fried oysters, Vidalia onion and sweet potato ravioli, and the deep dish chicken pot pie.

Zunzi’s: South African-inspired sandwiches. It’s messy. And amazing.

The Fat Radish is a fab New York transplant.

Pizza: Squirrel’s Pizza (est. 2019) in the Starland District and Vinnie Van GoGo's at City Market are both solid choices.

Make a dinner reservation at The Grey, which currently has a prix fixe three-course menu ($65) as well as a Chef's tasting for $125. Opened in a 1930s Art Deco Greyhound bus terminal, The Grey has been racking up the accolades since it opened in 2014 — and it’s much deserved. Chef Mashama Bailey was featured on Chef’s Table (Netflix) and combines personal experience with seasonal, local ingredients like okra, Swiss chard, quail eggs and tomatoes, to name a few.

Drink

The Paris Market isn’t a bar — it’s a gorgeous two-story shop with creams and perfumes, candles, baby gifts and Parisian curiosities. But it also has a little coffee bar on the main level where you can get a latte, champagne, croissants and other sweets.

Get dressed up and head to Artillery Bar open Wednesday to Saturday at 4pm. The earlier the better as tables are first come first serve. There are lots of rules here (silence your cell phones, no shots or basic beer, no flip flops or yelling), but it’s all worth it. The wine list is extensive and I appreciate that the cocktail menu has little icons to show you what kind of glass your drink will come in.

Two dives that were absolute staples when I lived in Savannah — I also take all my friends there when I visit: Abe’s on Lincoln and Pinkie Masters (cash only).

Watch the sunset from above: Peregrin atop Perry Lane Hotel, Rocks on the River at the Bohemian Hotel, Perch above Local11ten by Forsyth Park, Bar Julian at the Thompson Savannah, Myrtle and Rose above Plant Riverside District.

Sleep

The Kimpton Brice Hotel is on a great little Bay Street corner by a square which is nice because it’s less busy/touristy than other areas downtown. This is where I stay most visits because it’s dog friendly, budget friendly during the week (weekend rates can be $300-$400 a night) and it has an outdoor courtyard where you can eat, hang, chill and have a cocktail or a glass of wine. There’s an Italian bar and restaurant by the lobby.

A few classics: The Mansion on Forsyth Park, The Bohemian Hotel Savannah Waterfront (check out the rooftop), The Marshall House (I’ve heard it’s haunted) and the Gastonian.

Some newer faves: The Alida Hotel, Perry Lane Hotel, the Drayton Hotel and the new Thompson Savannah right on the Savannah River.

Explore

Enjoy a honey tasting paired with apples and cheese (free) or a mead tasting (around $10 per person) at Savannah Bee Company on Broughton Street. There’s a second location by the river, but I prefer the OG.

Two museums I love: SCAD Museum of Art and the Telfair Museums’ Jepson Center.

Spooky things: Take a hearse tour where you ride around the Historic District learning about Savannah’s haunted past. You can also visit Bonaventure Cemetery in daytime hours and stroll around the hauntingly beautiful graves of people like Johnny Mercer, who wrote the lyrics to Moon River.

E Shaver Bookseller: This is my absolute favorite little bookstore, maybe anywhere. It’s cozy and has a sunken-feel and is also home to some shop kitties.

Go to the beach! Less than half an hour by car from the Historic District, Tybee Island feels like an old-school, small town beach with a pier, souvenir stores, divey beach bars, diners, hotels and more. Stop at the Crab Shack on your way there and take a little detour for drinks (and to watch the sunset) at The Wyld on your way back.

Another stop you can make on the way to the beach: Fort Pulaski National Monument. Explore with a day pass or get an annual pass if you plan to return.