Postcard from Trancoso
A weekend in Brazil’s most effortlessly beautiful beach town
Time flies whether you’re having fun or not, but I went to Brazil in August and it was very, very fun. A short and sweet visit for one of my dearest friends’ weddings took a lovely group to Trancoso, Bahia, and it was worth every flight, car, and ferry ride to get there (Sao Paulo → Porto Seguro → Trancoso). A hidden little paradise filled with shops, restaurants, street dogs, beaches, one little bar that plays soccer day and night, and more.
The Quadrado is the heart of it all—a walkable sandy square that points to a white church at the end, and the ocean right behind it. Vogue has likened the town to Tulum — I don’t disagree — and in 2013, Beyonce even shot parts of her ‘Blue’ music video there.
Where to Stay
The luxe spot is UXUA, but I stayed at Pousada Seis e Meia, a more budget-friendly version just five minutes from the Quadrado. It didn’t disappoint: wonderful breakfast included every morning, a great pool and pool bar, and the staff communicates through WhatsApp to set up taxis, massages, whatever you need. I had a much-needed hour-long massage at the hotel for about $55, with coconut oil, lavender, and lemongrass. Would have gotten another the following day if we didn’t have a full schedule.
My hotel room was pretty small for two, but the bathroom was huge (though not the most private setup), and the little porch surrounded by plants, with a hammock front and center, was perfect for reading. I’d love to return with more time. A week here feels right—just chilling, drinking coconut water straight from coconuts, hanging at the hotel, beach days, books, long walks.
What I found and would recommend:
Santo Café (and the “pharmacy” next door that’s really a candle/incense/soap/beauty shop)
Muru, a little bar/club with live music
Boutiques worth browsing: Osklen, Nannacay, and local shops selling linen, jewelry, and art
Shopping in general is pricier than expected, but hard to resist
Vibes = Tulum + Costa Rica, but calmer, quieter, less humid—people really take chilling to the next level here
