Typical Portuguese Taverns, Tasting Menus, Natural Wine, Award-Winning Cocktails
All my favorite meals from four days in Lisbon
In May, I spent four days in Lisbon. This list is not inclusive of everything there is to do in the city. It’s much bigger than I imagined/expected, but I really enjoyed it and I’m sure I’ll be back. One thing that really stood out to me: how many vegetarian spots and natural wine bars exist here… and they are POPULAR. Love that for them—and for me. I’m really more of a grazer (a little bit of this, a little bit of that) when it comes to dining; I find I can try more things that way and I *loooove* to try all the things. I get major food FOMO when I can’t, so with that said, here are my recs for the City of Seven Hills.
A note before you proceed: I was told there are major city-wide parties in Lisbon in June so if you’re not into crowds take that into consideration before booking your travel. I tend to try to avoid Europe June-August so that I skip the heat and the touristy summer rush, but sometimes that’s unavoidable. Also - book your dinner reservations way in advance (like a month or two if possible). Don't say I didn’t warn you!
WHAT TO EAT & DRINK
Heim Cafe: I met a new friend from Atlanta here for brunch (turns out we were traveling to Lisbon at the exact same time - kismet). Here, there are no res. It’s a walk-ins only, all day cafe. On the menu, you will see “brunch” and" “all day food.” You might not immediately understand (we didn’t) that brunch for 16.50 means you get EVERYTHING for EUR 16.50. Green scrambled eggs, churro French toast, homemade granola with yogurt, orange juice. Like, what???? So good. We shared one brunch and got an extra OJ and it was less than 20 bucks between two of us. I don’t normally get my restaurant recs from TikTokers (more on that later), but I did find this one guy with some amazing suggestions including this one + a few cool coffee shops.
Cervejaria Ramiro: A Bourdain fave, Ramiro is overwhelming at first sight, but the seafood is fresh, delicious and worth the wait. DO IT. Ask the server for restaurant faves (if you’re not a squeamish eater) and try all the beautiful things. A safer and still delicious bet if you’re less of an adventurous eater: gambas al ajillo. This shrimp comes out sizzling in butter and garlic and you can’t go wrong.
We made it to three of multiple natural wine spots my new friend Mari recommended. Mari and I met coincidentally at a natural wine bar in Minneapolis where she and her husband were doing a tasting with some of the wines they rep. Turns out Mari, who is Italian, has been living in Lisbon for the past few years and had some great suggestions: Comida Independente for orange wine, smoked trout and snacks (they work with and carry products from small vinegar, olive oil, cheese, charcuterie and honey producers), Senhor Uva for an amazing selection of vegetarian dishes and Italian/Portuguese wine, and Vino Vero for more wine and cheese.
Make a reservation for Cura at the Four Seasons by Michelin-starred chef Pedro Pena Bastos if you’re feeling fancy… the dinner is 13 courses and priced at EUR 185 (not including drinks), but you can opt for a vegan menu or a mini menu (8 courses) for 145 instead. If you do this just know it’ll take up your whole night. Our dinner was at 7:30 PM and we weren’t out of there until almost 11 PM. Worth it, though. I’m always a fan of at least one extra special night like this.
We were looking for a fun rooftop to check out the city from above and this Lonely Planet Lisbon guide my dad gave me listed Memmo Alfama. I thought, because it was in this book, that it would be hella crowded, but we went during the day for drinks—wine, sangria, beers—with a view (you can see the castle from here) and were pleasantly surprised at how quiet it was.
If you eat at only one place in Lisbon, make it O Velho Eurico. Owned by brothers, this tavern was recommended by a friend in LA. I haven’t found it on any lists or guides, but once I started posting about it, other writer friends commented that they had been there and had loved it, as well. I tried to make a res here and they were booked up two months out, but if you show up at opening (for lunch or dinner), you can get on a standby list and will most likely make it in. This felt very authentically Portuguese (deep fried rabbit, squid and orange, migas de alheira (sausage and cornbread), cod salad (they call it the handjob salad lol) and PiriPiri shrimp and very punk rock at the same time. Don’t skimp on a carafe of wine during and then dessert and coffee to end the meal. You’ll need the fuel to make it through the day.
We tried to visit Red Frog at prime time without a res and it was a no go. No. 40 on the World’s 50 Best Bars 2022 list, Red Frog is known as a New York-style Prohibition-era speakeasy. BUT just next door is the Frog’s sister bar Monkey Mash, which specializes in sugar cane and agave spirits. We did grab cocktails and a bite here, and could not stop talking about the tempura chicken nuggets. They call themselves a modern tropical bar; I was getting some Asian fusion vibes.
Last but not least, just wander and you’ll find something great. Talk to the locals. Ask around and see where people like to drink/eat/hang out. People are so warm and friendly and unhurried in Lisbon. Use that to your advantage. Oh, and don’t forget to try the pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts)—you can find them in almost any bakery, but we also had them in our hotels.
Back soon with Lisbon day trips, where to stay, and sightseeing tips + more restaurant recs from friends!
Thanks!