Where to Stay and Play in Lisbon
Two hotels I would 100% book again, things to do, day trips and more recs from friends!
This week’s newsletter needs no intro. If you’re headed to Lisbon this summer, screenshot all the things. Below, you’ll find hotels, rooftops, places to shop, ways of getting around (hint: it’s not just the tram), historic landmarks, and more restaurants and bars. Enjoy!
WHERE TO STAY/PLAY
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon: The FS Ritz in Lisbon opened in 1959 and has recently undergone renovations that have kept it feeling like mid-century Portugal. In the heart of the city and one of Lisbon’s only luxury hotels, the property has preserved its historic 1950s architecture and design, while reinventing its interior with a contemporary touch… with things like new light and sound technology throughout, a restaurant that earned one Michelin star just a year after opening and classic design details including marble bathrooms that were left untouched. The coolest thing about it though (I think) is that there is a museum of Portuguese Contemporary Art inside the hotel. With more than three dozen pieces by Portuguese artists (sculptures, paintings, tapestries–many created in 1959, the year the hotel opened, but all from the 20th century), the FS Ritz offers a rich look into the city’s storied past AND the hotel even has an app so that you can take a self-guided tour of the art while there.
My favorite thing about any and every FS property is the service. No matter where you are in the world or what it is you need, they will find a way to get it for you. If you book this hotel it’s worth carving out time to just hang out here—by the pool, in the lobby bar, at the spa, etc. If you don’t stay here but still want to visit, make a reservation for dinner at Cura or grab a drink here anytime the bar is open.
Then there’s the very different but equally interesting 1908 Lisboa Hotel, which was Europe’s leading design hotel from 2018 to 2020. Run by the full-service hospitality management company Amazing Evolution, 1908 Lisboa falls within the Arroios parish (named the trendiest neighborhood in the world by TimeOut). Not only will you find a Bourdain fave here—Cervejaria Ramiro is just across the street from the hotel—Lisbon’s creative hub is also home to cool cafes, ceramic tile shops, night markets and hip co-working spaces. Walking distance from the Bairro Alto area and many cultural landmarks, the boutique-style 1908 Lisboa is the best home base for a food, drinks and culture-filled weekend in Lisbon.
Designed by famous Portuguese architect Arnaldo Redondo Adães Bermudes, the 36-room hotel holds a Valmor Prize—one of the most prestigious national awards for architecture—and is the perfect mix of old (the early 20th century Art Nouveau facade) and new (restored interiors including a modern bar, restaurant and art gallery) with a really tongue-in-cheek approach to design; 30-foot ceilings showcase larger-than-life art pieces like street artist Bordalo’s dragonfly collage made of discarded objects left behind from the hotel’s reno). A beautiful daily breakfast spread is included in your stay along with drink tickets to grab a glass of wine or a cocktail at the lobby bar during happy hour. If you prefer to be in the thick of it when you travel, this is the hotel for you. We had a few issues figuring out the shower (I soaked the entire bathroom when I turned it on), but the bed was so incredibly comfortable—I got the best coffee nap and a great night’s sleep here.
THINGS TO DO
See the Elevador de Santa Justa. You can also ride the 100+ year old lift up and down every 10 minutes or so if you’d like. I did not.
Ride the yellow cable car (Tram 28). I think this would be fun if it’s empty, but otherwise, ride a tuk tuk in the rain. You’ll cover ground faster than if you were walking and it’s a fun little change of pace.
Grab a drink at the Memmo Alfama rooftop (you can see the castle from here). I got this idea from a Lonely Planet guide to Lisbon my dad gave me so I was pleasantly surprised to find there were plenty of tables with umbrellas available in the middle of the day for us here. The hotel is a little bit hidden and you have to walk through a back alley to find the entrance so maybe this is why? Whatever the reason, I dig it.
Shop at Barro Store in Bairo Alto. You’ll find the cutest jewelry, clothes, pottery and more. Perfect for gifting or keeping for yourself.
Try the pastel de nata or Pasteis de Belém—a Portuguese egg custard tart pastry ( I like it without the cinnamon on top). You can find this pretty much everywhere pastries or desserts are sold. My favorites were the ones left in our room at the Four Seasons during our stay.
LxFactory is a historical industrial complex where you’ll find a bunch of stores and restaurants on a cobblestone, pedestrian block. I think it’s worth visiting just for the HUGE, beautiful bookstore called Ler Devagar. Also - rumor has it LxFactory may be torn down in the near future so I would visit just for the mere fact that it might not exist someday.
There are tons of tinned fish shops in Lisbon. I saw (and was mesmerized by) this one, organized by color, brand and who knows what else. If you are a fan of tinned fish, get some to take home with you here.
TBH, there is a lot we missed out on, but I just can’t stress about seeing it all. I’d rather wander around, eat, drink, take in the sights/sounds/smells of the city, window shop, chill and bookmark things for next time. We didn’t even make it to Belem, but again, next time.
DAY TRIPS
Sintra and Cascais which we fully missed, but luckily didn’t even try because the day we’d planned to go we were told there was a strike and pretty much everyone in line was just turned away.
Side note: there was a police strike when we landed at the airport in Lisbon and there were only two guys working passport control at 5 AM so we waited like an hour to get through the line. Strikes are pretty normal in Europe—I think I've experienced them in every other city including Paris and Barcelona so they’re just something to be aware of if you need a plan B anytime during your trip.
OTHER RECS FROM FRIENDS
Didn’t make it to ANY of these, but won’t gatekeep them either… I actually love the second time I visit a city (sometimes more than the first) because by then I feel like a local—I know where to stay, which neighborhoods are the most walkable, what the best public transportation is and I can hit all the spots I loved plus some I didn’t make it to the first time around.
Thanks to friends who sent me the below recs. I hope they are helpful for you, too:
Restaurants: Taberna Rua Das Flores (no reservations, closed Sundays, waitlist/walk in only), Augusto Lisboa, Prado Mercearia (Prado is the main restaurant, you’ll need a resy here), A Cevicheria, Pasteis de Belem (better than Manteigaria, but try both), Alma (Michelin-starred), Bairro de Avillez (cute, affordable and has one Michelin star), Ponto Final (make a resy, take the ferry at sunset), Jncquoi, Feitoria (if you want to splurge, this Michelin star restaurant is phenomenal and they make homemade gluten free bread which is delicious)
Cocktail/wine bars: Insaciável, Holy wine, Ulysses speakeasy (tiny)
Museums/parks/sights: Museum of Art, Architecture & Tech; Belem Tower; Jeronimos Monastery
Hotels: Mama Shelter, Browns Avenue, The Vintage
Thanks again